Nothing is better than having your own studio.
Recently, I had a conversation with a very talented Photographer who shares my interest in Flower Photography.
During the course of our conversation, I learned that she had a Custom Home Studio, very similar to mine.
If you love Photography, you owe it to yourself to invest in a home studio.
It IS money well spent.
Before I show you my home studio, I would like to share some of the work I have created there.
I love what I can create in my studio.
I am only limited by the amount of time I want to spend, and my imagination.
Having a home studio does give you the opportunity to get your shot just right, and you can shoot no matter what the weather outside is like.
Now, let’s take a look at my Home studio, and I will introduce you to my studio assistant.
Yes, I do have an assistant.
An assistant is someone who gets in your way constantly, and messes up your shot, right?
However, this IS my Home Studio.
A chair……. it’s really nice chair though.
Seriously, you can get some great finished works with very little investment and minimal set up time.
This is what makes up most of my home studio.
- White fold out presentation board.
- White Foam Poster board .
- (2) Black Foam Poster boards
- Rattan … thing I got at a garage sale.
Total cost – $4.50
The tricks?
There really aren’t many. Just set it up and shoot.
Watch your camera angles, and check for shadows. Often using lower numbered f-stops is the way to go to narrow your depth of field.
When shooting with the rattan thing, I often go with a very narrow depth of field and just let whatever is in the background form innocuous shapes.
In post production, you clone out the corners and either lighten or darken as needed. Adding texture layers is also a great was to jazz things up a bit
Oh, … yeah, what about White Balance? I’m always talking about White Balance.
You still do one. In this case I often use the White board as a WB reference image.
Depending on the available light I have, sometimes the reference images can be a bit odd.
Other times, I have used a close up of a leaf or petal when I’m shooting flowers.
Because my set up is easily moved, I can locate by windows for high key images like this. This was shot right by a window on a very sunny day.
On the other hand, I can make the most of a darker area by simply going for a very long exposure.
This was a 2 minute exposure at f 8.0 and only worked because I had my “assistant” go in the other room.
One more, this was was a set of 3 exposures used to make an Infrared HDR.
I am constantly amazed by some of the interesting items that can be used to create studio quality images.
I’ve seen many photographers get great looks using ceramic tiles. Just be mindful of the reflective quality of the tile.
The main point here is you can get a “pro” studio look without having to spend a fortune.
So, give it a try and if you find something that works well, let me know.
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Dan Wampler
Dan Wampler is a digital artist from St Louis, MO. Having been interested in art and photography since childhood, he spent most of adult life working for Kodak and in the portrait photography industry. A student of the works of Ansel Adams, Any Warhol, and David Hamilton, Dan attempted to keep a wide range of artistic style.
As an early adopter of digital imaging, he found it gave him a way to completely incorporate art and photography. Began shooting Digital Infrared in 2004, and had first camera converted in 2006. His work has been seen in numerous gallery shows, is featured in an iTunes app. He produces Infrared and natural color digital art for sale and teaches his post-production techniques online.
Dan is LifePixel's Creative Director, social media manager, lead blog author, main workshops and training sessions instructor. His images appear in this gallery and throughout the website.
If you have a topic suggestion or request feel free to shoot him an email at danwampler@lifepixel.com
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Helen Bradshaw says
Hi,
I have a very similar setup. How are you managing the shadows?
I place my subject in front of my boards and I have a shadow appear. I adjust my camera angle. I reposition my subject differently against the light. No luck. Shadows still appear. Are you using soft boxes or other light? Or, do you take it with the shadow and remove in post processing?
Dan Wampler says
Hello Helen,
I try to fill the area with as much natural light as possible, and then keep a distance between the background and the subject. I have in certain situations removed shadows in post when necessary. I hope that helps.
Helen Bradshaw says
Thanks for the info, Dan! I will give it a try. I think I did have the subject too close.